Don't let winter give you - and your car - the chills

1. If it’s below zero, plug it in!

Your car burns more fuel when starting in winter because it takes more energy for the mechanical components to lubricate themselves in oil that has been made more viscous by the cold. A block heater will solve this problem: Plugged-in engines are already half-warmed when started. Fuel consumption is thus reduced by an average of 15% over the first 20 kilometres driven (past 20 km, the engine will be fully warm) according to the CAA.

A snow plow operator pushes a car that was stuck.
Thad Allton, AP Photo

The CAA also estimates that for every 100,000 drivers who plug in their vehicles only once in winter, 50,000 litres of fuel — that’s a full tanker’s worth — is saved.

Not only does plugging in your vehicle when temperatures drop below freezing make for a more comfortable drive (the cabin heats up twice as fast), but it also benefits the environment. Because their emissions control systems kick in faster, vehicles that have been plugged-in release four to six times fewer emissions, as found by CAA-Québec when it conducted dynamometer readings. However, there’s no need to keep your vehicle plugged in all night — three to four hours are enough. Your car won’t get any warmer beyond that and you’ll be wasting electricity. Consider using a timer.

2. Starting the engine: Let go of the key

How do you start an engine that doesn’t want to start? Certainly not by continuously cranking the starter, which could damage it. No, after an initial attempt, let go of the key, but without turning the ignition completely off so as to avoid injecting any more fuel. After pausing a moment, try a second time, then a third and maybe even a fourth and final time.
Still no luck? There’s no point in continuing to try: Call roadside assistance, take public transit … or take the day off.

Note: some vehicles require their gas pedals be pressed three quarters of the way down, whiles others need to be pressed all the way down. Check the owner’s manual to be certain.

3. Warming the engine

On cold mornings, you don’t need to let the engine run for a long time before engaging it. A mere 30 seconds is enough. Idling any longer wastes fuel and results in unnecessary pollution. The best way to warm a vehicle is to drive it. That said, avoid high speeds and rapid acceleration over the first five kilometres.

Be prepared for this.
Ted Rhodes, Postmedia News

4. Stuck in a snowbank? Don’t rock!

Stuck in a snowbank? Don’t make rapid manoeuvres in drive and then in reverse — rocking back and forth like that can hurt your transmission. Rather, pause between each motion until the vehicle has come to a complete stop to spare this important (and expensive) mechanical component.

Obviously, you will have deactivated (if possible) the traction control system, which will hinder the task at hand by redistributing (or reducing) the engine’s power.

If the situation calls for a pair of tread plates, slide them under the vehicle’s driving wheels, with the studs facing down and not against the tires so as not to puncture them.

5. Frozen door locks: Say no to hot water

Drivers who plan for emergencies keep a can of lock de-icer on hand (not locked in the car!). Forgot yours? Don’t go pouring hot water on the frozen locks. In a few seconds that water will freeze over and you’ll be no farther ahead.

Instead, try unlocking another door. If that doesn’t work, use a hairdryer to blow hot air directly on the lock. Two to three minutes should suffice for even the most deeply frozen lock.
Don’t have a hairdryer or plug outlet nearby? Warm up your key using a lighter (wear your gloves) and try to delicately insert the key in the lock. You will need to do this a few times before you get the lock to turn.

6. Frozen doors: don’t pull!

The doors are frozen shut: Although it might be tempting to pull on the door handle with all your might, it’s best to be patient. Otherwise, you risk damaging the door handle or the door’s rubber seal. You can pull a little, but if the door doesn’t give, try the hairdryer trick. If you don’t have a hairdryer handy, pouring the hot water you didn’t use on the lock might solve the problem, but make sure to properly dry the door and door frame both inside and out. Otherwise, you’ll be stuck again faster than you can say “ice storm.”

Another tip: Try parking your vehicle so one side faces the early morning sun.

7. Winter tires: You need more than the snowflake

In the market for winter tires? Don’t be fooled by the Rubber Association of Canada’s mountain/snowflake branding on the tire’s sidewall. This pictogram means that, in specific tests, the traction is at least 10% better than that of all-season tires. Look for tires that are doing better.

Furthermore, even tires with all the snowflake pictograms in the world won’t do what they’re supposed to do if they’re worn. A lack of tread depth results in moisture being wedged under the tire, thereby increasing the risk of hydroplaning, as well as increasing braking distance.

Some provinces have passed legislation regarding minimal tire tread depth (usually 1.5 mm), but, because tires get worn over the course of the season, CAA recommends you don’t start winter with tires with tread less than 5 mm thick.

Tires lose one pound of pressure for every drop of 6 C. This has a negative impact on their durability, on braking and on the vehicle’s fuel consumption. You end up burning 2% more fuel for every four pounds of pressure a tire is under-inflated. Use an accurate tire gauge to regularly check tire pressure and make adjustments when needed.

You might have to jump your car battery at some point, so make sure you know how to do it correctly.
Stock image, Fotolia

Battery boosting done safely

Although it might not seem complicated, boosting a battery is a risky operation. An unsuccessful attempt can cause a spark that could ignite battery fumes or result in over-voltage that could damage a vehicle’s electrical systems.

Yet, a large percentage of drivers do not know how to boost batteries properly — they either connect the last clamp to the battery terminal or remove the cables too quickly. Are you guilty of this? Keep reading to avoid making more mistakes.

1. The “working” vehicle must not touch the vehicle with the dead battery. The booster cables need to be long enough to reach both vehicles. The clamps must also not touch.

2. To ensure the vehicle with the good battery does not die, start it or keep it running.

3. The order in which the clamps are connected is critical. The red clamp has to be connected to the positive terminal of the dead battery. The second red clamp has to be connected to the positive terminal of the working battery. The black clamp has to be connected to the negative terminal of the working battery. The last clamp is NOT to be connected to the negative terminal of the dead battery, but to a solid metal surface — such as the alternator bracket — located at least 30 cm from the battery.

4. Before jumping the dead battery, check that the car’s parking brake is properly engaged and that all electrical accessories (e.g., defroster, headlamps, radio) are off.

5. Start the car with the dead battery. Leave the cables in place for a good five minutes, long enough for the battery to store some energy. (No need to worry about the battery of the working vehicle: as long as both cars’ engines are running the power supply needed is minimal.)

6. Remove the cables in the reverse order in which they were connected.